Introducing Emile and Brice Bolognini of Mas Mellet in Costière de Nîmes, as well as Florien & Mathilde Beck-Hartweg in Alsace.
We like stories about intrepid couples who find a labor of love in terroir and viniculture. So do you! Both pairs today are exactly that, with both of them meeting and getting started incredibly young -- never looking back. You taste it in the wines: care, precision, and the cultivation of a living thing. At the risk of sounding precious, these are wines made with love, and we love that.
Mas Mellet - Emilie and Brice Bolognini - Gallician
Barely twenty years old, Emilie and Brice took on a serious, 27 ha project of abandoned vines in a place close to our hearts, the Gard. In their first year, 2003, they had a vintage, and have been refining ever since -- slowing down, paring back, intervening less. They've cut down to 16 ha, and have converted all the vineyards to biodynamic agriculture. The wines are full of character, and have a lift and exuberance completely outside of what I've tasted from Costière de Nîmes. That may have something to do with the influence of their friend and collaborator, Eric Pfifferling of Domaine L'Anglore's fame. Good guy! If you got to try the collaborative cuvée "Les Salines" last year, then you have an idea of what you might be in for. For what's in the bottle, these prices are gadzooks! Also, don't the labels remind you of Clos Roche Blanches?
Beck-Hartweg – Florian & Mathilde Beck-Hartweg – Dambach-La-Ville
- I met Florian in 2017 at his family's ancient cellar in the middle of a medieval looking town. A truly incredible place with foudre more than 200 years old, tools and trinkets that must have been older. Florien, on the other hand, was a young, enthusiastic, and incredibly sharp man who talked me through the history of this 11 generation production, while underplaying his own contribution to the tradition. He is something of an agricultural scholar whose prolific output is not limited to wine alone. You can see him on youtube explaining his vines and their cultivation here. Of course you may know the wines already from Chambers Street Wines, where Eben has been directly importing the wines for years. Thanks, Eben for your graciousness and support. We've started with an extremely limited drop, so please let us know ASAP if you have interest.