Here today, gone tomorrow.
Our book is going through some changes, and we're tailoring our weekly newsletter to match. For one thing, we have some producers moving from our portfolio to Fifi's newly independent book. So, here today and gone tomorrow is our pal Philippe Petit in Calce. He's making really remarkable wines from some of the most interesting and variegated terroirs of the south. Calce is an amazing place home to lots of your favorite winemakers: Matassa, Gauby, Face B, Philippe Padié, etc. Two tectonic plates collided where Calce sits today and so there's lots of variegated subsoils and interesting exposures that winemakers get very geeky and romantic about. Petit has worked in wine, for co-ops in these vineyards for over 13 years and knows the place well. As a result, these wines are incredibly precise and well designed. We simply love to drink them.
Finally, I want to tell you about a relatively new producer in our book with some excellently priced Beaujolais. Maxime Troncy comes to us from our pal, Julien Altaber. Julien buys Gamay from Max and that's why he has the cuvée "M". It's Gamay, and M is for Max. Neat!
Max is a really wonderful guy who has taken a portion of his parents' domaine in order to make a conversion to natural farming through biodynamics. Max is in Cogny, which is sort of near Moulin a Vent, and sometimes he makes wine from there! Today we have a series of Vdf wines, and some bourgogne-level AOC wines. These are totally natural, pretty, and proper wines that span the spectrum of traditional Beaujolais in terms of body, acidity, and flavor. What does that mean? He has sharp clean BTG chard; richer and unfiltered chard; super-light and juicy co-fertments; straight-up carbonic Gamay; and a Gamay/Gamaret blend with nice structure and rusticity.
Next up, let's talk about a winemaker we've known and loved from the very beginning of his domaine in 2016. Jérémy Decoster will sadly be leaving us to be a part of Fifi's newly independent portfolio. He came to Fifi at the recommendation of Alice and Olivier de Moor of Chablis, where we worked for many years in the cellar and in the vines. If you've heard me talk about them, you know that Jérémy truly makes some of my favorite wines in the world. They are elegant, precise, sublte, but never austere. All this comes from a man very interested in philosophy (not the mystisicm of Steinerism or the like, the real stuff), Modern classical music, playing the harpsicord, and also the Louge Lizards. He's a dear friend and we will hate to see him go, but here today and gone tomorrow is Les Cortis.
